"When the Frenchman Bruno Robichon, together with his wife Hannelore, took over the village business “Zur Frankenburg” in the Orensfelsstraße in July of 1984 in the idyllic Rieslingdorf Frankweiler, the southern Palatinate seemed to be even more culinary. Well, in the same year, a certain Karl-Emil Kuntz took over the office of the chef in the Haynaer Krone and cooked his first star two years later, but otherwise, in the region lined by wine bars, ostrich farms and village bites, there was not much going on. The love of the defensive regional cuisine went first and foremost through the Saumagen. In this respect, this luxury slave, committed to the cuisine of our neighboring country, was something extraordinary from the outset in the heart of Frankweiler's residential area. And that today, 35 years later, the restaurant still exists and still enjoys a great popularity, speaks for its continuous quality, with which exquisite Franko classics have been served for over three decades. As a solid gastronomic authority and reliable recommendation, this family-run traditional place is no longer a secret tip. And so I also enjoyed the classic French inspired bistro cuisine of Maître Robichon for the first time 25 years ago. A family Christmas dinner led me back then into the living house, which is very little on top kitchen. The fish dishes prepared on the spot from then keeps my long-term culinary memory stored until today. On the other hand, the homey living room-winter garden atmosphere of the two guest rooms together around the 45 seats, I had no longer quite on the screen when, together with my wife, on a warm summer evening in mid-August after a long abstinence, I slipped back there again. The fact that the following visit should take place just two months later was not yet possible. Apparently, we must have liked it quite well. Also in August we knew nothing about the upcoming renovation of the first guest room, to which we missed a completely new look. In the formerly traditional living room with a well-maintained farmhouse atmosphere held a not inferior chic bistroambiente entrance. With new lighting in the form of contemporary pendulum spots, green walls and noble wooden tables and wall benches made according to their own ideas, this was a surprise in the very best brasserie channel. On both visits I reserved via Facebook or email. I communicated both with the daughter Sophie FB , who has worked in the service sector for seven years, and with her mother Hannelore Mail . The latter, thanks to her dedicated daughter, obviously makes it a little quieter after so many years in the gastro and is no longer behind every evening. And so was the daughter of Sophie, who kindly received us and transported our jackets to the wardrobe. She was supported by another service force on both evenings. Our questions were answered professionally and openly. We had enough time, and after every walk we were asked if everything was fine. This did not happen as a study, but sounded for real interest in the good of the guest. The fact that during the visit in October the chef came to our table for a small professional empire about the preparation of his bouillabaisse showed us that one takes time here not only for the tribal clarinets. Mr. Robichon was relieved in the kitchen by another chef Nils, who had also completed his apprenticeship here and acted as the right hand of the boss. I also saw the young Azubi Tobias through the riches to the kitchen. The one or other remedy seemed to complete the manageable staff ceiling of the place. According to the existing Womanpower was limited to the essentials without having to act in a thirsty way. Bruno Robichon wants to bring his guests closer the fines of the French cuisine and offers, in addition to a reduced à la carte selection of classic bistro dishes fish soup, mixed appetizer plate, croustillant with lamb filling, fillet from the Charolais-Rind, medallions from the Breton lamb and sea grind fillet with scallops three different menusourmetal season. Some of the à la carte dishes are found in a slightly modified form in the menus. The decision for the five-course 60 Euro gourmet menu was not difficult for me. The original Seeteufel-Carpaccio could easily be exchanged for the much praised fish soup with Rouille and Croutons. A fine selection of cheeses and a tartelette with lemon mousse and lemon-thymian-sorbet were added to the second and third aisle wolf fillet and lamb medaillons. My wife was taken to Provence from the 49 Euro season in four stages. On her palate voyage, she was sent to the south of France by grilled Provencal vegetables with goat fresh cheese, a small fish soup with roasted dorade fillet, rabbit pupils with fresh puffs and apricots with lavender cream and apricot sensorbet. The really excellent assorted bottle wine card, which, in addition to a variety of French trouvailles, also lists good Palatinate drops, makes the heart of every wine lover beat faster. All important wine regions of our neighbouring country are represented with selected chalks. In addition to Burgundy, Beaujolais, Bordeaux and Rhônetal, even the Maconnais, the Loire and the Languedoc vinophil are honed. Friends of large Palatinate plants may enjoy Riesling von Rebholz Siebeldingen, Weißburgunder von Münzberg Landau-Godramstein and Spätburgunder by Messmer Burrweiler. Small bottles of 0.375l are also represented in the extensive grape juice range of Robichons. In August, we selected a quarter of Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret from the Domaine de l’Amandine for fair 5.50 euros as well as a juicy Weißburgunder Cabinet from the Siebelding wine specialist Wilhelmshof to 6.50 euros for the same amount. The red Southern French was a real wolf in the sheep's fur. He flattered us through the summer evening, while Mr. Weissburgunder, with melt and a hint of exoticism, could not have given us a better counterpart. When we arrived in October, there was no trace of restraint regarding the choice of a suitable bottle wine. The 14% Réserve Rouge from 2012, called “Mas de Tannes” from the exceptional winner Paul Mas Languedoc, proved to be a worthy food companion, who swung deep dark in our glasses with wonderful bottled ripe. With a price of only 23.50 euros, he was also a real bargain. To agree, our “bouches” were thoroughly “amused”. In August we enjoyed an aromatically fragrant paprika-espuma with olive oil emulsion, which, just like the two months later, refined with curry and filled with a fig-acid red-bete vinaigrette, the small glass aromatically. A hint of seasonality that had already been felt in the airy buzz. To this end, hearty cheese-wind bags, called “Gougères” in Burgundy, were presented. Fluffiger couldn't have had the greetings from the kitchen. At the latest when we arrived at Bruno Robichon for the second time a few days ago, we realized how important the chef is a fine acid component in his dishes. This draws like a red taste thread – in different nuances and shades is understood – through its food repertoire. Typically French. The start was made by a fish soup, completely without alcohol, which came on a strong bobillon basis with dead evening roasts and a lot of tasty sea noise. On the edge of the plate filled with juicy fish fillet insert, a yellowish hem kissed from the hearty use of one of the most important Bouillabaisse spices ever, the saffron. Also the use of garlic was not deliberately under homeopathy from the outset. Consequently, the aromatic fish broth confronted my taste pale with a Mediterranean-maritate wide wall format, which I had only perceived a trace more intensely at the port of Marseille. But that was a long time ago. Bravo, Mr Robichon’s “subscription court” was a very successful kick-off and came up with a lucullic hit. I could even dispense with Rouille, roast bread and cheese rasps, which were not allowed to be missing as obligatory supplements, so beautifully advised Brunos Bouillabaisse. My wife also praised her vegetable hills fragrant with fresh herbs, with roasted pine nuts, fine olive oil and a handsome goat cheese filling. The grilled main players were Aubergine, Zucchini and Paprika. However, the acute use of garlic, sage, thyme and rosemary made them completely unfold. The cheese cream of the goat, also with a herbal note, fits perfectly into this colourful Provence-Potpourri with its slightly herbal freshness. We switched a gear higher. While Madame was presented with a slightly smaller version of the fish soup adapted to the menu, I got it to do with a perfectly fried seawolf fillet on the skin that throned on homemade Sepia noodles. A “cleaning” well tasted Sauce Ratatouille complemented this already purely visually very successful course of fish in a pleasantly savory way. It's good that there were a few more bitches from the Weißburgunder cabinet in the glass. Because the fish plate was excellent. Oh, how wonderfully such a snorkellessly cooked Mediterranean food made from high-quality basic ingredients tastes! What more does it need? But there was more. And also the meaty “tasks” of the evening we wanted to ask ourselves. Especially since the macchia's baled scent in the form of two juicy lamb medaillons from Brittany rose into my nose on an equally well-smelling sauce level. The potato gratin was served à part in a small dish. To this end, slightly bite-resistant, cooked vegetables peas, carrots, Kohlrabi . A classic three-component dish, which lived primarily from the handmade impeccablely prepared lambs and the two easily grown-through, à point-grilled medallions of the salt marshes, which were naturally very spicy. Its aromatic meat was congenially refined by an animating herbal marinade, not only the highest olifactory demands, but also produced a wide palate grease with its end user. Also wonderfully juicy the one Roulade did not dissimilar paupiette of the rabbit, which my wife joined together with pifferlings of the high quality class. And everyone who knows himself in meat dishes who quickly hops into the dryness of such a bunny. A hint of basil, which touched both from the filling of the carnival back and from the lushly portioned jus, surrounded the feast served with the same vegetables. Maître Robichon also gave this full-bodied appetizer a certain extra and made my heart lady spoon out of the full. The cheese course before the dessert consisted of four well-ripened specimens. Goat cheese roll, Comté, Reblochon and Fourme d’Ambert covered a quite wide range of flavours ranging from mild to spicy. This was also a pleasant cross-section through the French cheese continental. The creamy Fourme d’Ambert, the soft goat cheese, the slightly more flexible reblochon and the hard bar from the Franche-Comté were really fun. The quite lush menu portion was managed by us in the sharing mode. The milk products offered should not close our stomachs. Because the sweet finale was before us. The tartelette, flanked by Him- and Heidelbeeren and equipped with lemon mousse, from the finest grape vinegar had received a ball of lemon thyme sorbet on the plate as an acid-aromatic counterpart. Well, that with so much citrus freshness a few little Merinque cups turned my dessert back to the sweet. The wife was also attached to her apricot abdomen, whose excellent lavender creams extended the sweet ripe fruit pieces blessed by abundant carotene by a slightly herb note. The apricot sensorbet also provided the appropriate freshness. Sauer, herb and sweet – a combination that actually raises every dessert to a round taste experience. The fact that we were crowned with two pieces of Schokotarte made us nothing at all, especially since this Petit-Four replacement would have denied each good Patissier a jealous “Chapeau”. This was not a chisel, but an entry draught for lovers of the elevated cocoa content. Along with the last red wine cap, this was impeccable or “comme il faut” as the French says. Like I would like to review the second visit here. But that would probably blow up the textual framework. Only so much is said: my two à la carte dishes selected this evening, a fabulously grilled duck pot liver on apple leafy pillows with lentils on Vinaigrette with fabulously delicate tranches from duck breast 22,50 Euro and the perfectly medium rare fried fillet from the Charolais cow on red wine sauce, autumn vegetables For the sake of completeness, the four stations of their culinary autumn hike are briefly listed. Goat fresh cheese with red bee and autumn vegetables made the colourful start. The intercourse was marked by a Coquilles St. Jacques, filled with Crevettes, Mies and Sapphire, which was not so dissimilar to the baked Breton species. At the main course, the breast and throat of the mare chick zealed for the most juicy moments on the plate. A wonderfully sinful Mirabellen-Clafoutis had been given to Zwetschgencomott and Mirabellensorbet as an adequate companion. For us a dessert for sharing and dahiny. Merci Sophie, Merci Bruno for these two evenings at a very high level of taste. The extremely well-priced Gaumenorgia impressed and we are looking forward to the next visit. Bringing such quality to the plates for 35 years is worth all honour. Chapeau, monsieur!"
Guenter
