"We had an excellent chateaubriand on New Year's Day, with a fine red wine selected by the staff. Obviously one has to pay a premium for gourmet fare of this calibre, but we had expected that. The waiters who served us, while certainly competent and efficient, were cold to the point of unfriendliness, despite my attempts to engage them in a friendly manner. It is for that reason alone that I would award the Eckstein four stars rather than the five it would otherwise deserve."