"Like a champion athlete, Dovetail went out at the top of its game, undefeated after a reign of over a decade as the best restaurant on the Upper West Side. We went for the final dinner last Saturday night, as much as to say good bye as to celebrate with one last great meal. The champ did not disappoint. Every dish was superb. The lamb was the best in memory and the wine pairings were intelligently, imaginatively, chosen. The service and the mood of the diners was celebratory. Everyone wanted the place to go out at its best. I await the next act. The owners and most of the staff will be back in two months with a new restaurant. Equaling Dovetail will be a great challenge. My money is for them to come back different but wonderful, aspirating to new heights."