Nordsee - Étlap

Trankgasse 11, Koeln, Germany

Hasonló éttermek

Appare Tiān Qíng あっぱれ

Appare Tiān Qíng あっぱれ

Balduinstraße 10, Cologne, Germany, 50676

Sushi • Lunch • Salads • Japanese


"Anyone who thinks about Japanese cuisine probably has the first sushi, sashimi, maybe a few more show games on the Teppanyaki plate in mind. But the fact that a restaurant, except Sashimi and Tempura, renounces all this and is describing to the Washoku principle, is rather rare. Whathoku? In Japanese, this describes more terms such as peace and harmony. In the broadest sense, however, this also means the balance and optical presentation of a meal. Hiroyuki Watanabe, vintage 68, to which one does not consider that he has already passed the 50, was for many years in the now closed “Daitokai” chef and made himself independent with the “Appare” a year ago. The Gault Millau donates 13 points in its 2020 edition. We visit the restaurant, located between Rudolfplatz and Neumarkt in a side street of the gay epicentre of the Schaafenstraße, on a Saturday evening. Inside it presents itself relatively objectively and expediently. We would not have expected excessive decoration anyway. The most maredged is the bar where numerous sachets and other Japanese spirits are presented. Decent jazz music plays in the background. We are somewhat surprised that despite a Saturday evening many tables remain unoccupied. Interior In the “Appare” there is a menu of 38 euros with eight choices for the starters and seven alternatives for the main courses. An Amuse Bouche is served on the way, then a duo of small appetizer and soup. Additional gears are calculated at 9.50 euros. Desserts also go extra. A lunch menu of less than 20 euros is also offered. As Amuse Bouche there are toned, smoked mackerel on Krautsalat, which is tastefully acidified with Yuzu. That's a nice but still quite harmless appetite tap. Amuse Bouche: Smoked Mackerel, Yuzu The following duo consists of fried peppers with a fish piece, some crunch and a finely tuned salad. The black-rooted lush is very ally, not very concise and quite European. This time, however, compulsory admission has been sacrificed to lively entertainment. Or was it hunger? From the appetizers we choose the Tataki from the duck breast. The meat is pink and has a beautiful wort and light sharpness. Tataki of the duck breast I am starting with the Escabeche of Sardine. This seems to be a little like Brathering, and the freshly tuned and acidic brew is good, but overall I lack something special here. Sardinen-Escabeche with Yuzu We order an additional appetizer and then travel with Sahsimi and Tempura in quite accustomed fields. The sashimi of tuna, mussel and redfish are of good product quality, and there are two kinds of wasabi and soy sauce. The tempura of shrimp, fish and various vegetables can also convince with very fine, crumb dough. There is a milder sauce and grated radish and ginger. Sashimi from day fish Soy sauce Wasabi Tempura: fried shrimp, fish and vegetables In the main course we choose on the one hand with Miso lacquered salmon. The opulent piece is indeed roasted or grilled, but still juicy, the supplements (beans, romanesco, green asparagus, oyster mushrooms and pumpkin felts are rather classical and European. Grilled salmon from Scotland There is nothing to complain about at the Gargrad of the Challans duck breast. The meat is well roasted pink, serving as spices pink and green pepper. Otherwise, the supplements are identical. The different cooking times are properly taken into account. But they come to the table either hot or cold. Challan's duck breast, pink fried With the desserts we keep on ice, once vanilla ice cream baked in a foliage coat with a green (Matcha? , aromatic powder brittle and a very creamy Matcha ice cream as well as a piece of quite hard papaya. I would not have expected the latter in view of the otherwise so pronounced quality standards in Japanese, but both types of ice are otherwise very tasty. So this has been our encounter with Washoku kitchens. Apart from some striking acid peaks in the appetizers, soy and wasabi as seasoning agents for sashimi and tempura, this was also expected in the aromas of classical and European. The dishes were rather designed for a coherent harmony rather than for foreground effects. I cannot say whether this reflects the Washoku principle or only my impression on the basis of the dishes we have tried. In any case, this was a Japanese cuisine, as I did not know in this form so far. I suspect that Hiroyuki Watanabe does a lot of things in the kitchen. This may explain the rather long waiting times and the almost cold supplements at the main dishes. It shouldn't fit. The menu obviously doesn't change too often. Even though I was not able to convince myself completely during this visit, I would also like to try other dishes from the menu, because we felt comfortable. The service is attentive and friendly, Hiroyuki Watanabe awarded an interested and good-yellow boss and the value for money. “Appare” stands in Japanese as a call for enthusiasm. This time, it's still a little behavior. But that can change. Report also on my blog:[here link]"