"I have now written five reviews of the return address successfully operated by the Kuntz/Schlindwein family for several generations in the former Hayna tobacco village near Herxheim. At the time of the first report of 2015, Karl-Emil Kuntz was still at the stove. His youngest daughter Erika has been in charge of the crown for four years. The man who is not only private at her side, but also leads the kitchen brigade is Fabio Daneluzzi. As a former student of Kuntz, he entered mighty big steps and then only 25 years. The fact that the heavy culinary burdens would also follow several “seed years” was not visible at that time. The consequences of the Corona pandemic with all its invulnerabilities and personal care have definitely taken care of one or other sleepless night in the young couple of gastronomy. The fact that the birth of her daughter also fell during this time probably did not make the nights quieter. But instead of adding small, the operator duo Kuntz-Daneluzzi has reacted and invested. The lockdown helped a high-end pizza oven from Vesuvgestein, the heart of a take-away concept, where one refreshes on the Italian roots of the cook. Too bad that the incomprehensible delicious pizzas do not get on the map of the Palatinate marmas. In addition, the virus was actively offered the forehead with performing various vaccinations. However, the biggest changes in recent months have experienced the hotel area. With a new indoor swimming pool, 28 newly renovated rooms and the opening of the first CBD spa in Germany with corresponding cannabidiol applications, the living area of the crown was innovated. This has certainly cost a lot of time, money and power, which means that the further development of the food supply in the Pfalz Stuben remained somewhat on the way. Although a new kitchen block was installed at the beginning of the year, there was not too much on the menu. It is also only slightly altered four years after the departure of the Maestro and is still characterized by his handwriting, in particular in meat classics. During the Corona period, the wood-paneled guest rooms were also carefully brought to the top. But such efforts often require their homage. In this case it was the culinary prestige object and the flagship of the house, the Kronen restaurant, which unfortunately could not be opened again since its closure about three years ago. Maybe you can't open it anymore, because the staff simply lacks to put an ambitious star kitchen on their feet. That's why you focus on the Palatinate Stuben. The former second place, which was formerly awarded a Bib Gourmand, has now moved to the first cooking place and continues to enjoy a great popularity. One has the impression that due to the good use of the hotel of the store, as in ancient times, arches. The fact that you don’t have to hurry to refresh the culinary orientation “Come on to the Devil” lies on the hand and then on the guest on the plate. The range of dishes has always been extended to three large-format sides, which are located in a foldable, separate leather folder. They are still deliberately dispensed with their publication on the website. The common Kronmann knows what he's been expecting for years. And as a newcomer you can be surprised. Personally, I don't think that's bad, because the choice of food is something for everyone and you can usually rely on the classic crown. These include various creations from the “Karl-Emil-Kuntz era” such as the Saumagen-Carpaccio on lukewarm-white herbal salad with chicorée, lentils and potato cubes on Cumin-Vinaigrette, the calf livers on chives or the cattle roach in strong burgundy potatoes with carrots. There are probably enough regulars that consider the crown as a reliable part of their culinary cosmos precisely because of such body and soul dishes. During our visit in mid-June, the food repertoire was significantly reduced on the summer map. Of six cold appetizers were three. Warm dishes – probably due to warm weather – were completely dispensed with. Meat and fish were also much slimmer than before, which is not detrimental to badly defined foods like me. In contrast, prices have risen as expected. Whether inflation or corona dependency is sometimes present, compared to the last visit in November 2019 – just before the pandemic began – the appetizers increased between 30 and 40 percent, while the main dishes did not accept the price. However, as mentioned in my summary, high regional consumption must be regarded as a mixed calculation, because the crown, which has hitherto been known for its phenomenal price-performance ratio, must also face the economic realities of today and also master them. Besides, you still get a lot of money. From the absolutely perfect, very professional service to the extremely well-maintained ambience to the small, but fine trinations – the legendary amuse, called “cooks from the crown kitchen” continues to exist, even if one is in a somewhat confused or less saturating variant – still in the service of the cultivated Palatinate and with an associated part of regionality. If you want to eat lunch in the Palatinate, you can do this only on Sundays and holidays. We chose the last option and reserved a table for three people plus baby in Fronleichnam. It was summery warm and so we could make it comfortable on the beautiful terrace. For the youngest at the table, a high chair was quickly worried. The service had no problems keeping an overview despite the kicker of the second-levelist Darmstadt 98, which prepared for the coming season in sunny Palatinate. In addition to the delightful footballers that appeared in the combined sports dress, there was a lot of fun on the lasy, green-covered outdoor seat where a pergola protected us from the strong midday sun. Then we sat on a brightly covered table that populated classic "handicraft" in the form of double cutlery, bread plate including knives, wine glass and pretty folded fabric napkins. The slightly anachronistic substrate of tin was of course not required as a pleasant table. For Durst, a bottle of mineral water was ordered 6.80 Euro, for pleasure followed a dry cuvée from Weißburgunder, Chardonnay and Grauburgunder called "Weitsicht" 26 Euro from Bioland-Weingut Gut from Beiden from small fishlings, which I had discovered in the excellently sorted bottle wine map. It was drunk with vision... This compendium still contains almost the complete “Who is Who” of the Palatinate wine scene. And at fair prices. There is actually the corresponding bottle for every purse. In addition to the standard paddles, there is an attractive selection of 0.375l bottles for car handles and other ascetes. Of course, the “open version” presents very shapeable descents that not only inspire the common “Quertrinker”. With regard to the planned intake of solid foods, we decided twice for the crispy leaf salads from the summer market on Sauerrahm-Yoghurt dressing with fresh garlic, tomatoes, raw food, parmesan and croutons each 14 euros. My mother gave an appetizer. It was completely enough for the culinary pleasure. In the main dishes my wife really liked it and ordered the calf bags on celery pure and strong Spätburgunder-Jus 29 euros, which were swollen at low temperature. My wife Mama prefers the Ricotta spinat ravioli in sage butter with 24 months ripened Parmigiano Reggiano 23 Euro, while my strength was in Mediterranean restraints and with fried Black Tiger shrimps preferred 32 Euro. I was curious if my seafood pasta would justify the quite sporty price. But first we were filled with rustic sourdough bread and a few baguette slices with spiced crust salt buffer mix. Bread from the bakery Kerner with Dip Both were always taken from the traditional bakery Kerner from the neighboring village Herxheim. A summery crème with a bright lemon otter acted as a light color. Not too much of the delicious bread! I thought and did it well because the Amuse cellar came down to three small things. Three delicacies from the Kronenkoch The approximately 2cm long Saumagen sausage throne as a defensive peat on a piece of champagne spice, which still tasted 30 years ago. Together with the fingertips full of frying jus, this was a first small palate seater that brought the high-level regional cuisine of the crown to the porcelain in a small format. The famous Saumagen sausage on champagne herb... On the other hand, the duck in the Wan-Tan-Teig could not arrive tastefully, but the bite "Fernkost" ensured at least a welcome change on the plate, in the middle of which a foamed vegetable liush of the extra-Abschmeck class awaited in an espresso cup. So far, so predictable, so good! In the well-cooled white wine, I also continued to demonstrate “visibility”. Many melting, gentle structure and clear burgundy aromas, this cuvée, lined with pear and honey melon, were characterized by the wine village Kleinfischlingen, only 300 inhabitants. A good catch, how quickly it turned out. Then they served my wife and me the green leafwork that could have been a trace more crisp. Summer leaves salad on acid cream yoghurt dressing with fresh garlic, tomatoes, raw food, parmesan and croutons For this the slightly garned yoghurt acid cream dressing was delicious. The summer salad was perhaps a bit overstretched, but tastefully without mistakes and pliers. How was that with pleasure like a mixed calculation? Yeah, right. If you add the big amuse at this point and divided by two, the PLV is also correct. My mother did her grandma service for our little ones with Bravour by using her on the arm almost every corner of the Kuntz garden. Of course, our girl found that many utensils were toys, Tipi tent, paddle pools for the upcoming birthday party of the small daughter of the operator pair in the garden. So my wife and I could at least temporarily enjoy our lunch. Also worth mentioning is the fact that with a voucher from December 2020 we crossed the Christmas gift from my Mutti in the crown. Our concerns that he had already lost his validity were quickly removed by the friendly service woman. The service must be mentioned at this point in praise. The ladies in the mandatory Dirndl functioned flink, routined and still had time to jump around with our daughter in the whole hectic. There was no need to complain about this service. In my Mediterranean pasta plate there was hardly anything to complain with three pawns of the Black Tiger Sash. Roasted black tiger shrimps on Tagliolini with tomatosugo Jene left the pan in perfect condition and was of very good quality. Perfectly roasted shrimps! If there were two more copies on the plate, I wouldn't have written a complaint. A great praise goes to the tomato souvenir, which is torn before Umami. Its almost sinful fruity presence on the palate, caused by the intense aroma of fully ripe tomatoes, was quite remarkable. The band noodles were still slightly resistant to bits. On the top of the grated parmesan wore additional wort. Carrots, Kohlrabi and Zucchini completed the ensemble in optimally cooked manners and were also staged ingeniously. Especially the carrot carrot cube held together by a zucchini strip was a real eye-catcher. Overall, this gave an absolutely harmonious summer plate with amazingly much taste. Roasted black tiger shrimps on Tagliolini with tomato souvenir Similar, my wife Mama, who had tasted the homemade Ricotta spinach ravioli. Here too, Kohlrabi and Zucchini censor the braided noodle dish in the same direction. Ricotta-Spinat-Ravioli in Sage butter and Parmigiano Reggiano 24 months And that the old Parmesan is well sown with sage butter, of course, is not a secret, but produces pure good taste. Only the size of the part could have been a small "peacher". For me, the Ravioli would have had more interim marks, but my mother was apparently fed with him. When my wife ordered the rugged calf bags, I was not surprised that she sat on a hand-resistant “winter plate” when it was warm. At the latest at the sight of the generous lake of Spätburgunder-Jus, which surrounded a magnificent hill celery puree, my first doubts were distorted. At low-temperature swollen calf bags on celery pure and strong Spätburgunder-Jus, of course, the two calf bags, which are above all additives, had the water flowing in my mouth. Meat can hardly fail for the bidder. A probier **** confirmed my suspicion that this main shell would be good to handle even without using a knife. Only real failure of the day was their supplement. The handcuffs? At the end of the table were unfortunately completely salted. Also her uninhabited deep yellow color. The salted latex with too high egg yolk content has been replaced! There it was clearly exaggerated with the trination of egg yolk, especially because it was too lazy out of consistency. Well, they were definitely not edible and were replaced by our service ladies with freshly prepared, much better scaled goods. That this took some time was on hand or later in a silver dish. We forgot a dessert for advanced saturation and the situation with our little ones who no longer found their stay in the high chair so exciting and wanted to explore the outside area of the hotel restaurant Krone on the arm of Mom, Dad or Grandma. Thirdly, we did not fully use the voucher, which will have a culinary taste in autumn. Then I would perhaps dispense with the five-course “Pfälzer-Stuben-Menu” 79 euros, which has been admitted to me by the individual corridors, but at the warm temperatures was simply too much of the good. Finally a question to the kitchen master Fabio Daneluzzi. What prevents a young top cook with Italian roots, which at Lockdown times has filled the perhaps best Pasta Fresca of the South Palatinate into the Take-Away box and has suspended perfect pizzas of Neapolitan style into ready-to-be cartons, from a clear Italian orientation of its refined regional cuisine? Standing Palatinates, like Peter Steverding “Isenhof” from Knittelsheim, are not afraid of Burrata, Branzino, Casata Co. On this magnificent garden terrace, dominated by crafts and tobacco sheds like a Tuscan oasis in the middle of the village Hayna, an even Mediterranean cuisine philosophy would not only be appropriate but only to follow. Take it into your heart, Fabio and trust more Italian moments in the future! The old regulars with a pronounced somagene and Rouladen affinity are also not younger and the subsequent generation of connoisseurs is more open in this respect than you could think."
