"We continue our small city tour – my buddy and I – through the new town of Nord from the Agnes district. At first we passed the Balthasarstraße to the Kasparstraße past “Metzger Marie” a restaurant with a decent German and Austrian cuisine. Then we moved to Krefelder Straße. There we stopped at the Catholic church of St. Gertrud. The decline of the popular churches is accompanied by the disappearance of the popular parties. There are fewer and fewer priests and therefore the churches are becoming bigger and bigger. Here are four churches belonging to a municipality: St. Agnes the second largest church in Cologne, St. Kunibert and St. Ursula two great Romanesque churches in the rank of a basilica minor and the small St. Gertrud church. Built by Gottfried Böhm. This modern construction was “reduced” as a parish church in the context of the mergers; for it has become a place of “church and culture”. So it is quite clear that there are no benches or furnishings other than altar and taufstein. Loud speaking or singing leads to a mixture of sound and hall that creates quite amazing sound experiences. But it also shows that few people in this newly educated city area are looking for church services: fairs hardly take place, the churches are more museums. But no wonder in the behaviour of the church leaders. In addition to the church, there are also “temples” of eating culture on Krefelder Straße. At first we passed the “construction site” from the new Eric Werner local. It should be called “astrein” and open in August 2019. I already expect something from this former star chef, how else is he supposed to say? Only a few meters further lies the highly decorated restaurant in the city: “Le Moissonnier”. But we bend over the Maybachstraße to the Ritterstraße to the inn “Em Altertümche”. Ambiente The beer and dining house is really still a relic from the time of the corner pubs. There's another bowling alley. Outside the house there are some outdoor spaces. Inside there is a hall for 50 guests family celebrations etc. and just the “normal” guest room. The setup is quite simple. At many corners there are furniture around. It looked disordered for me, but it certainly makes sense for the guest. In the front area, all tables were reserved and then a large group of ladies at the best age came, who made sure a trip and now consumed their “night meal”. Cleanliness Everything was tied up. The toilets were unfortunately once again in the basement. Service The host and the young ladies were friendly and supplied us with carols – even if we did not order large dishes. The map n There is a day map with reasonable prices and an evening map with bourgeois cuisine. The tasting food We only ordered “Halver Hahn” €4.50 for the little hunger. The plate was classically made: a thick slice of medium Gouda, half a rake, some butter, onion rings, a few fresh salad leaves and a bag of mustard lion from Düsseldorf! Beverages Here there is the herb Gaffel Kölsch at a price of € 1.60 for the normal bar in the Gaffel am Dom, the same drink already costs € 1.80. You have to take time occasionally to go to such magnificent old pubs. It's just fun in a sociable round. 1 – certainly not again, 2 – hardly again, 3 – if it arises again, 4 – happy again, 5 – absolutely again – after “Kuechenreise” My list Kölscher Kneipen primarily the ambience, less the beer: 1. Schreckenskammer near St. Ursula Schreckenskammer Kölsch – brewed in early 2. Sünner in Walfisch Sünner Kölsch Kalk 3. Päffgen Friesenplatz Päffgen Kölsch 4. Malzmühle Heumarkt Mühlen Kölsch 5. Bierhaus am Rhein Delfter Haus – Päffgen Kölsch 6. Lommerzheim Deutz Päffgen 7. Peters Brauhaus Altstadt – Peters Kölsch – part of Haus Kölscher Brautradition – brewed at Gilden in Mülheim, now at early 8th Em Scheffge Reissdorf Kölsch 9. Max Stark Päffgen Kölsch 10.Severin Dom Kölsch – part of Haus Kölscher Brautradition – brewed at Gilden in Mülheim, now at early 11.Brauhaus Pütz Mühlen Kölsch 12. Brauhaus Stüsser Agnes district – Sion Kölsch – part of Haus Kölscher Brautradition – brewed at Gilden in Mülheim, now at early 13. Em Altertümche Hansaring Gaffel Kölsch 14.Gilden im Zims Gilden Kölsch – part of Haus Kölscher Brautradition – brewed at Gilden in Mülheim, now at the early 15th Sion Brauhaus Altstadt – Sion Kölsch – part of Haus Kölscher Brautradition – brewed at Gilden in Mülheim, now at the early 16th Pfaffen on the Heumarkt Salon Schmitz near Rudolfplatz – Schmitz Kölsch – brewed at Sünner 18.Bierhaus en d ́r Salzgass Päffgen Kölsch 17.Gaffel am Dom Gaffel Kölsch – Local huge and quite loud 19.Früh am Dom Früh Kölsch – Local huge but completely angled and unclear Kölsch It is here only about Kölsch, the pipes were made from So not bottled goods. However, I must say that I prefer to drink the brands that are a bit rich. Kölsch is a bright mountainous slightly bitter beer. It should have a clear hop note and not have too much malt taste. 1. Gaffel As it has the most herb grades for me and acts harmoniously, I always like to try it again and again. It used to be brewed at the Eigelstein, now in Porz. In the glass is a beautiful foam, which also holds a bit of crumb is freshly drunk and offered in 0.2 l – glasses the bar. There is no creamy foam crown necessary. In the Antrunk I even find light sweetness, but then the hearty note prevails. The finish is not long, the sounds of fine bitterness remain. 2. Sünner Also Sünner has herb and structure and is for me my “beginner” in taste. I rarely tried it in Eion's restaurant where it's going well. In the glass, appropriate foam is formed, which also keeps short. The first swallow shows herb grades directly. There are fresh tones in the nose. The finish shows a balanced hop taste. Sweet is little in the game. The crumb is certainly not herb, but it tastes me. It was never brewed after World War II. The wages are changing, but the family recipe remained. At first it was brewed at Giesler in Brühl. Then it came to Dom and Zunft and now even early. It has a little more alcohol than usual and does not get any after-growth to get more carbonic acid. The color is golden yellow, fresh smell, slightly sweet at the start, later slightly bitter, foam quickly collapses, short finish: round and accessible. 4. Päffgen Päffgen is a very solid beer. There's only in the barrel. The family was still at the trunk house in Friesenstraße. They say that their beer doesn't always taste the same, but always good. The glasses have no advertising print. They are simple clear rods. The foam is medium. The aroma is mildly spicy. An aromatic crumb, quite mild but not sweetish and simply sweet. Also the inns that have passports in the sink are recommended by the bank. 5. Sion Hans Sion is considered the father of the post-war cereal. At that time, the small breweries in Cologne were almost all destroyed by bombs and the large Pils and export producers were able to conquer the market in Cologne. Sion realized that the mercenary brewers had to stop with their own beer to keep themselves in business. And it worked out: Kölsch again became the number one in the Cologne Bonn area. Even Sion didn't break himself. In the glass is beautiful foam, which also holds a little longer, fresh smell, pleasant bitter, hardly sweet, medium finish. 6. Mills The beer from the malt mill is certainly also anything but herb. But it is harmonious in itself and therefore tastes me. I like the little brewhouse on the Heumarkt. There's some foam in the glass, but it doesn't last long. The smell is fresh, the taste picant without many bitter notes, the light sweetness is well integrated; during a visit I noticed acidic accents that seemed unharmonic; the next visit tasted the beer again pleasant. 7. Peters Originally from Monheim. For traditional reasons, they were also allowed to call Kölsch after the Kölsch Convention. But in the meantime, the “Haus Kölscher Brautradition” is part of the Radeberger Group, which in turn belongs to the Oetker Group. The beer is brewed in Cologne Mülheim near Gilden just like Sion, Sester, Peters, Dom, Küppers etc. . In my nose I notice fresh malty notes. The first swallow was pleasing, but without a special touch. I lacked a character. But overall, the Kölsch was smitten with distant herb sounds. 8. Gilden The beer has always been brewed in Mülheim. Today, next to Sion, it is the premium brand from the Kölscher brew tradition. In the glass was clear foam, but it quickly passes. The first swallow was balanced in herb and sweet. But the aromas are very reserved. Also mild. 9. Reissdorf Reissdorf is the market leader in Cologne. In downtown they have fewer restaurants, but in the Severinsviertel they are home. Fresh fine foam formed in the glass, which quickly degraded. The smell is fresh, but also rather inconspicuous. No special sweetness or hearty tones. It's a bit boring, but it's pretty bad. 10. Dom Dom Kölsch was very skillful in marketing for a long time. In Germany, abroad and in the high-quality gastronomy, the cathedral was often to be found. But I never tasted it. The label color was green. Since the takeover by the House of Kölscher Brautradition one changed to “red” perhaps it should remember early. I don't know if the recipe was changed, but it tasted better when visiting the brewhouse than before. In the mouth there are no special notes of some sweetness and more hearty notes, at the finish there are some strange, unfamiliar hop tones. This light self-will makes it less sinful than early or Reissdorf, for example. 11. Schmitz Kölsch The local scene has opted for its own beer. It's brewed with sinners. Of course it has its own recipe. But it didn't convince me completely. The bitter notes are weaker than the sinner. 12. Early in the morning and Gaffel are somewhat equally strongly represented in Cologne and thus form space two and three in the amount during the ejection. Gaffel is my number one, and in the morning I only taste when I have a lot of thirsty and have not tried another cereal before. In the glass is foam that quickly disintegrates. The Antrunk shows neither sweet nor hearty accents. Other swallows show no depth but nothing disturbing. In the finish I find hardly any reverberation of Kölsch notes. The taste is quickly gone – what remains? Nothing. So another glass, or not? 13. Pfaffen Earlier the brothers sold Päffgen in their restaurants only Päffgen Kölsch there were at first only three houses: Friesenstraße, Heumarkt and Lommerzheim in Deutz. But there were disputes Max announced the contract and his son broke his own beer in Lohmar. It wasn't supposed to be Kölsch. Even about the name there were discussions. After all, it was called Original Pfaffen Bier. In response, the brother founded a slender next to the house with peepers Kölsch beer house en d ́r Salzgass. It is superb and bright, but it tastes kind of sour. In the first swallows, I find easily herb and spicy notes, also some sweetness. But then the sour sounds disturb me more than the joy of the other flavors. Date of visit: 31.05.2019 – Previous evening My enjoyable experiences are also at [here link]"
