"So I can finally share a very current impression of a restaurant visit with you. This one was closing me to Hamburg on Friday. Warning: This really won't be a short text, because I was just allowed to take too many impressions, which I would like to share. So I would like to ask for an apology for the length of the report. Shortly before the Corona crisis, I looked forward to a reservation in April. Despite the fact that this anticipation was initially in vain, it did not change the desire to return to Matteo Ferrantino in “bianc”. So I could finally catch up in June, even if the fact that the circumstances and atmosphere could not correspond to the time before Covid 19. Cooking and the sense of taste and service the team has certainly not learned in the meantime. So shirt, tie and Sakko, that must be easy with me with such a “event” and on to the Hanseatic city on the Elbe. In the Hamburger Speicherstadt, Matteo Ferrantino has created a point of contact for friends of sophisticated culinary delight, who, in accordance with his origin, has dedicated himself to Mediterranean and Italian cuisine, and has also been awarded the second coveted Macaron by the Guide Michelin after the first year. External view The interior impresses with bright walls and elegant, curved shapes, as well as wood-clad ceilings and meets the demands of a more luxurious restaurant absolutely. A connection to the Mediterranean home of Ferrantinos is also to be linked through the central olive tree. I received the swivel chair as a very great and very cozy alternative to classic chairs, as it was so relaxed and happy to weigh back and forth. : Interior view The open kitchen explicitly invites you to take a look at the kitchen crew. Of course, I didn't miss it and there was the first surprise of the evening. Matteo waved me with typical Italian Elan and arranged, of course equipped with protective masks, a memory photo. That was just super sympathetic. The open kitchen with chef Matteo Ferrantino I therefore felt the decor as exactly right, but it also reflects the demands of the cuisine here. For this, I have a full score for the atmosphere. The service team also knew with professionalism, high attention and circumspection to create a comprehensive sense of well-being, in which one can easily surrender to the pleasures even in spite of the well-known hygiene measures, which were naturally observed exemplary. Along with the surprise and cordiality of Matteo in the photo surprise, there must also be all stars here. 3 fixed menus are offered: an omnivores “market” and a vegetarian “garden” menu in a selectable size, as well as an 8 popular Carte Blanche menu “Emotionen”. My preference was on my visit to the side of the “market” menu, to which I wanted to devote myself in 5 out of 6 courses to the desired dispensation of the dessert was very happy to devote. 140€ make beech. The menu that I have chosen is already the start of the kitchen team with an entire armada to Aperos or Amuse Bouches, who also personally introduced Matteo Ferrantino. This could not even be captured in a photo! Since all this was so enthusiastic, I ask for forgiveness that I really want to share my impressions with every apero, even if this does not make the text shorter. x D Aperos #1: “Green Apple Gazpacho” o.l ; “Oyster Pearl” o.r. ; “Rindertatar Black Garlic” u.r. “Green Apple Gazpacho” Pleasantly chilled with intense apple taste and beautiful balance of sweets and acidity. ‘Oyster pearl’ After she burst slightly in her mouth, the typical organic oyster taste “Rindertatar Black Garlic” I loved was clearly revealed. This little thing was particularly surprised by the black garlic, which, aromatically, but not overlying, contributed a light, suitable sweetness to the fresh Tatar. The crunch through the Cornet perfectly rounded off the impression in the mouth. Aperos #2: “Gurke Dill Boquerones” or ; “Bacalhau Brandade Kichererbsen” and “Gurke Dill Boquerones” A crisp, hollowed cucumber ball filled with dill cream and on top of the small Boquerones sardine. Here, however, I would have liked a little more saltiness through the sardine, which tastefully did not come along. ‘Bacalhau Brandade Kichererbsen’ With its sea salty aroma and wonderful creaminess, the stock fish was clearly made out to which the chickpea with bite offered a successful variety. Aperos #3: ‘Entenleber Mais Lakritz’ or ‘Oktopus Gallega’ and ‘Entenleber Mais Lakritz’ This was also a successful aromatic surprise. On a Macaron were creamy duck liver, licorice and on top of corn. I wouldn't have thought it, but the liquor taste was so balanced and inferior that it countered the fat liver a suitable part. Only a little bit too much sweetness was a small criticism for me, but this really only means the last quäntchen. The little thing could convince. „Oktopus Gallega“ Classic octopus gallega from octopus, potatoes and paprika was converted here as an apoero so wonderfully creative with a crispy potato nest, optimally cooked octopus and a clearly perceptible paprika cream. Aperos #4: "Chicken Piri Piri" o. ; "Gambastortilla" and "Chicken Piri Piri" A sprout was apparently shaped from chicken farm and crowned with Piri Piri sauce. Here, too, the clear, hearty chicken meat taste was thrilled, which in the end still received a twist due to the slight sharpness. “Gambastortilla” This was once again a Umami snack, which still gave the Gambas tasteful space. The “Pane” is also extremely honed in the “bianc”. So it comes to the table as a separate walk of the menu in the form of a three-piece. ‘Focaccia Mediterranean buffalo butter oregano blossom’ and ‘Grissini Lardo’ or ‘Grissini Lardo’. In the “Focaccia Mediterrane Buffalo butter oregano blossom” one should eat the oregano blossom and then the butter to the Focaccia, which was served in the bread bag in accordance with the “peas bread bread” from the mother of Ferrantinos childhood. Initially the flowering with slightly bitter touch irritated something, but in total with the airy butter with pleasant saltiness and the perfectly fluffy and at the same time red bread Mediterranean flair at its best played on the palate. “Grissini Lardo” combined greasy melt and crispy sweetness: it just has to work and did it absolutely. Green Olive Anchovis There was a “false olive” with a small sardine. As hoped, this cool sphere plumped in the mouth and exposed an intense olive emulsion. Only I have to be honest that the sardine was not really perceived as I would have liked. The "Carabinero Carrot Lemon Olive Feta" menu opened. Carabinero Carrot Lemon Olive Feta In carrot mandel covered with lemon angels, a Carabinero Tatar was hidden, to which feta cubes were tied with olive cuts and a carrot emulsion. Already with this first gear, the team in the kitchen proved this sense for a perfect balance, which always enthuses me in this passion. Soft Tatar and “old dente” carrot prepared the haptic basis. The cylinder would have been too sweet for itself. But precisely there, the salty feta and the herbe olive played their perfect role in the dish that weighs all tastes balancedly. It followed with “Lirio Tomate Capers Kichererbsen” the 2nd Gang. Lirio Tomate Capers Kichererbsen Lirio is a Portuguese mackerel, which was served here as a Tatar on a grilled tomato slice. Kichererbsen and basil cream, capers, red onions and a freshly cast basil emulsion were added. After the successful start, this gang was able to convince me tastefully, but in a different way than I expected before. In order to be honest, the mackerel altar did not play a real main role here tastefully, but rather gave some volume and bite for the aromas of tomato, basil, capers and onions. Their interplay was directly linked to the Mediterranean. Here again a great surprise was built, because a buffered amaranth, which surrounded the plate at the edge of the emulsion, provided a welcome crunch variety. The third gear continued with “Jakobsmuschel Olive Oilsud Grapefruit”. Scallop olive oil and grapefruit In the main plate, a fried scallops surrounded small grapefruit pieces and Salicorn to the Matteo personally an olive oil sock. A part was added a baked splint with a saucer. Here the first ingredient also played the absolute main role again: warm, fleshy, juicy and yet crispy on top and with great roasting stars. This scallop was nothing but anger. Their taste always remained in the foreground due to this quality and became so only with acidity, salt, light bitterness and fruitiness. For the latter, the great olive oil sud was also primarily responsible. However, the splint could also tastefully burn into my memory, because the crusty shell with a once more aromatic pebble tar completed an intense swab of olive majonnaise to perfection. Also in the penultimate of my chosen 5 courses, one remained culinary again in the cool wet with “Rotbarbe Chipirones Schwarze Pil Sauce”. Red Bar Chipirones Black Pil Pil Sauce A tranche of the red bar covered with Chipirones Baby Kalmare throned on a potato puma and with sepiatonte black coloured Pil sauce. For me, the small catching arms function almost like a “Meeres Pasta” with their great consistency, which, of course, supports great fried and yet glazed fish tastefully. Cremig smashed this pair of potato pomas and delivered some bite with small, fried potato cubes. The Pil Pil Sauce also filled a suitable part in which it added a hearty earthness to the sea. The crowning conclusion of my menu should be “Stubenküken Pimentos del Piquillo Ajillo Jus”. Stubenküken Pimentos del Piquillo Ajillo Jus Surprisingly, first of all, it was a strong reduction for a main course. But as always, you should not be fooled. This little mare chick breast was by no means inferior to my taste of a fat duck in his fleshy taste. This was also done by very small cubes on the roasted top, which accentuated the strong taste, perhaps fried skin? . The so-called sphere of the Pimiento fits into the piquant image. For lean chicks, an aiolisphere gave the greasy supple balance. The Jus was also raised in their intensity over any doubt, although a taste difference did not arise due to the addition of “Ajillo” garlic/pesley. In total, a really strong herzhafter conclusion, although he did not reveal a great tasteful surprise. Despite Dessertverzichts, of course the “bianc” does not pass its guests without a rich selection of Petit fours with “Caneles Kardamom Rum”; ‘Mocca Macaron Tonic Pine Cores’; ‘Kirsche Mascarpone Thymian’; “Salzkaramell Praline” and “Brownie Ananas Whisky”. Petit four from the top left in the clockwise direction: Mocca Macaron Tonic Pinienkerne ; Salt Caramel Praline ; Caneles Kardamom Rum ; Kirsche Mascarpone Thymian ; Brownie Ananas Whisky All these were finely worked and tastefully standing in the quintet, even if the annated flavors appeared to me very well and sometimes rather not clearly perceptible. I liked the airy mocca Macaron with a clear coffee aroma, to which cool tonic jelly refreshed and added the matching crunch to the sweet pine nut. In summary, the bianc provided three hours of truly comprehensive happiness and satisfaction. The double Michelin award and the price level has already been absolutely righteous to the experience offered on one side by the atmosphere created by the service and ambience. Also the cuisine convinced me with intense aromas, very good craftsmanship and, despite balancedness, always surprised me with some haptic and tasteful twists. Since there were sometimes a few things that would have been missing for me for perfection, for example at Lirio, the “false Olive” and a few of the Aperos and Petit Fours and I still want to measure at the demands of a restaurant, I have to leave a half star here as an air to the top. I still regret not having committed this visit with the given “specialities” with any cell of my body, and would love to repeat it. Therefore, for the overall impression, only a full number of points remain for me as legitimate. :"
Dietmar
