"In the otherwise quite lively Deidesheim, Ketschauer Hof has one of the most beautiful and quiet courtyards, which is also the stage for the two restaurants of the stylish hotel. For our first evening in the “L.A. Jordan” we enjoy the beautiful weather covered on the terrace. Due to the time constraints that are still in force at this time, we start our dinner earlier than usual and come with the temperatures that will be slightly cooler in the evening, while some guests later change inward, but because of the tables that are generous anyway they are equally well placed on the requirements. A menu at Daniel Schimkowitsch always begins with a sensory watchmaker. The apple syrup filled with ginger looks harmless, but with its pronounced sharpness brings the aromas immediately into the habitat position. And this smallness also marks one of the stylistic elements in Schimkowitsch's kitchen: sharpness and strong aromas. Apple, ginger, coriander The second Apéro is also seamlessly connected here. A parrot with shrimp and anchovimayonnaise has a clear Indian note with the chip and is also clearly spicy with the use of the crimp. Papadam. Shrimp The last Amuse Bouche appears surprisingly reduced, but it proves to be fascinating intense. A duck of dim in a highly concentrated, slightly salty duck broth proves to be strong and unusually tasteful. A large walk that also clearly marvels the direction of the kitchen with Asian flavors. The menu begins with a relatively coarsely cut Tatar from the excellent Ora King Lachs. A mandarin mayonnaise and rice pearls for the crunch already offer variety. Also savory caviar delivers texture and supportive taste, but above all the deep vinaiigrette based on bonito flavored travel vinegar perfectly rounds this elegant dish and makes it a great start. Ora King Lachs, Mandarine, green Thai Chili and Sambai-Vinaigrette How to put green asparagus in a completely new context, Daniel Schimkowitsch proves with the next gear. A bar is covered with olive groves and molten Lardo, which would be a good combination. But with the ginger berry blanc and a grandiose foamy ginger, the plate is catapulted directly into the TOP 10 list of this year's dishes. Green asparagus from Provence, Kalamata Olive, Lardo and ginger With a fried piece of stone cook it goes on, covered by a piece of zampone, which is filled with pork foot and a green ash. Sunflower seeds ensure that the mouth feel is not too soft overall. All that sounds more powerful than it actually is. The kitchen turns a gear here, but to all taste bombs before this is probably a wise decision. Of course, this is also a very harmonious combination. Lieu Jaune, Erbse, Zampone and Escabeche verde The quality of the Kaisergranat can be seen at first glance. The specimen of the Faroe Islands is of impressive size and Daniel Schimkowitsch makes it good to cover it with mustard seeds and a sauce based on Crème fraîche relatively mild and rather sweet. So he lets the crust animal the stage he deserves. However, so that it is not too pleasant, there is a co-player with the à-part-rich large lobster bisque that brings powerful anger into play. This is a big walk that reminds me of a visit to the New State Gallery in Stuttgart many years ago, where the most sustainable impression was a compilation of two pictures that radiated a great rest on the left and presented an almost stormy picture on the right. Impressive. Kaisergranat from Midsund, Cream Cru, XO Oil and Bisque Hummerbisque Among the most popular fish in Japan is the Madai, comparable to a Dorade Rosé. Here comes with crispy skin and otherwise hard-blooded. Red Daikon Rettich and a Umami butter sauce based on Teriyaki form the reduced frame for a retracted but again very harmonious walk. Madai, Umami Mother and Red Daikon On our little gourmet trip we enjoy the third time of the evening. It comes from the prestigious Polting estate and is covered by a pane of perfectly fried berries. There are cabbage rabies in textures, among other things as pure cabbage green. The jus of the burnt scarf is intense and tasty, but lets the burnt only see. A pleasantly reduced and handmade perfect equipment. Poltinger Rehrücken, Gänseleber, Kohlrabi and burned Shallottenjus As Pré Dessert it goes back to exotic soils with a yogurt on green, Japanese peach and melon. As expected, this is very fresh and puts the melon in the foreground in taste. Yoghurteis, Japanese peach, Melone Although I'm not a great friend of banana, I like the last dessert very well, also because it appears to be optically captivating with the crispy leaves, I sometimes think of Kokutou, a cane sugar spread in Japan. In combination with fruit and chocolate there is a round taste. Okinawa Beni Wild Harvest 66%, Banane, Sake-Trester and Kokutou With Pistazien-Macaron, wind bag with burned chocolate, chocolates with Yuzu and Macaron as well as with Miso and caramel as Petits Fours, the menu is expected to close the first class. Petits Fours Even tonight, the pace was relatively fast, probably due to the unknown circumstances with time constraints. Nevertheless, it did not feel steadfast, which is also due to the charming service of Maria Friedrich. The house includes the wineries Bassermann-Jordan, Reichsrat von Buhl and von Winning, so you have nothing to consider here in terms of wine technology and many wines are available in stunning vintage depth. But of course, other Palatinate wines are also sufficiently represented on the very fairly calculated wineries, such as many other wine-growing areas. Our last visit here is actually back three years. At this time we enjoyed the kitchen of Daniel Schimkowitsch, which was characterized by strong aromas. It's not different this time. The Asian influences are even more acute, the dishes are even more focused on the point. The menu showed a beautiful dramaturgy, in which even quieter but therefore no less expressive dishes were followed on a strong vein. That was pretty far forward anyway. Daniel Schimkowitsch has been a candidate for the second star for years. I don't know why he shouldn't really shine here. Report as always on my blog: [hidden link]"
Natascha
