"You don't have to understand everything you want. I thought when I left the restaurant in the quiet residential street on the outskirts of Nuremberg. From the main train station about 15 to 20 minutes walk through a park that surprises me with a beaver reserve. There may be three stations with the road. From a friendly young man already at the door and to facilitate my wardrobe, I took very positive note of the renovated room design. During my last visit at the time of Manfred Burr, in Nuremberg, in a Versace exhibition, baroque shapes and gold rush were displayed from the lamps to the plates. Now a pleasantly clear style in warm brown tones. One of the walls with a warm wood veneer that rests with a glittering fabric. The owner and boss Fabian Denninger would like to have removed what fits very well with the “star sky” made of small LED lights, but failed in the veto of the delayer. I liked the sparkles under the ceiling. The retro playability of Yucca Palme, Ficus, Kaktus and Araukarie Eher rare guests in the current Star Gastro interior design is provided in otherwise similar design. The dark oak show with noble fires was also surprising, but not inappropriate. Musical jazz was served, definitely not elevator music. But when the evening was closed, the volume was quite high. With the gastronomy that is interested in maximizing profits, I found it a bit strange here. The tables also elegant with two ceilings, on it a small gravel light and a small vase with tulips. Oh, spring was still far... rolled the oversized napkin, not folded. The silver cutlery classic on benches. A glass plate under which the menu was grounded served as a control plate! Less weights at the table with large cards along with scissors risk and still the upcoming bands literally in front of eyes. Sympathy also that the entire team has signed with welcome greetings in the wine card. The tables are not too narrow, but passive participation in the lives of others is not completely avoided. On the one hand I came to the doubtful pleasure of several congratulation phone calls from the birthday party in the corner. But also the blow of a highly-adapted lady on the side table, which already interrupted the list of aperitif with the dry remark that she had nothing to do with champagne. When a second wine was later praised as a “small brother of...” she complained: “I have nothing to do with small brothers.” Lady, you did my day! A single gentleman who also took pictures. Ha! About a colleague from Gastroguide? When leaving the place, the boss rushed after him and appeared after only 10 minutes. My demand confirmed the service, but it should not be a GG here, but the Michelin critic for repetition. But they also do a very good job... The toilets after renovation are very appealing, a stack of guest towels in various strong colors (me good mood. For a pleasant stay, the service of Sommelier helped Mr. Vietzhum, who was supported by a young, well-trained colleague. Both acted sovereignly and friendly, classically from the help with the chair, above the table for the handbag to personal acceptance at the front door. A taxi was also offered. The kitchen already gave a first sample of its ability on three spoons A small piece of waller with a beautiful roast note and fresh accompaniment of apple and beet was my favorite. The buckwheat cream with Enoki on a very crispy self-baked bucket bread has also convinced. On the game of the king's crab, a little water irritated, and the sweetness of the carrot did not come against an unrecognized, acidic co-player. Diversity seemed to be a program here. The second greeting was even better The juicy watch Roulade with abandoned Lardo stripes and Röstzwiebelpüre was a “reinset” Umami. The wine consulting accepted my wishes well. In the revised assorted map focusing on Franconian growth, there is only the old world that was explained with the rhetorical question: “What makes sense to serve Argentinean Malbec for regional revival?” This can be seen in sustainability aspects. We agreed as headliner on a Chassagne Montrachet Les Macherelles 2014 by Thomas Morey, who despite his youth (i.e. the wine Mr. Morey, I don't know very powerful and complex. The wood came back decanted and the wine won from minute to minute. Very good that the bottle was only short in the ice, the decanter then came to the champagne cooler. The best young Chardonnay of the last few months. I have not suffered a moment about the many euros. Sidekicks were a Campari Orange for kick-off and a Martini Gran Lusso for cheese. And then, in the end, a sweet red Vendage Tardive from the Côtes du Rhône just because I wanted it. This day I left my taste free and did not pay attention to repetitions or sequences. Also not hurt me, the French in the glass wore me sovereignly through the evening: Confierte Wildschwein Lauwarmer Pulpo Donau Huchen Fried eagle fish Rosa Entenbrust Fränkischer Heumilchkäse The six-speed menu with 92€ absolutely fair. For accompaniment, 5(! own bread varieties were offered, all well The crispy yeaststicks with tomatoes tasted particularly well. Add salted butter and a delicious, rich herbal cream. With the first menu, gang came from the currently pitiful black coat several slices of confiscated bacon It went so chubby, but especially intense. I could begin less with the many other components. Truly natural, delicious salt potatoes, lukewarm and exactly boiled. Majonäse with a couple of Cumin grains, a much too big Klecks-Pferdecreme, potato chips for the cripple, a few crimps. Looks like a somewhat deconstructed but unknown Franconian dish. I didn't understand the combination. Franggen, open me! I The pulp of the next plate was probably boiled before the roasted sous vide, super soft to a somewhat irritating softness. Tasteful but 1a, lukewarm with beautiful roast notes. Head salad and black root are clearly recognizable on the palate. It was fun for you. But I couldn't connect with the octopus in the best will. I'd rather have expected wild boar. I was completely satisfied with the first fishing trip Instead of saibling I was looking forward to the Huchen. A salmon-like, as in cut slightly glazed, wonderfully juicy and with perfectly crispy skin. Instead of citrus fruits, Chef Denninger sets fruity accents with foam and cores of the pomegranate. I didn't need the horrors. Very successful also the accompanying variations from green cabbage: pure, classic (but fat-free, raw sweet sour pikant inlaid and finally spited. That was exciting, even if less hadn't hurt. It's overwhelming me, and then it's just gonna work. In the menu, eagle fish also fried on the skin I suggest that the etately saibling was otherwise prepared. White meat a little further cooked, but impeccable, also skin. Fruit acid came this time from Pomelo pieces, which seemed somewhat economical in portions. What could be found in the excavation variants of celery and wheat. A lot of l’art pour l’art, although I like the fried knife and the stuffed grain. Before the main course a Gin Granité with bitter lemon gel for refreshment, I am in itself for sorbets and granités with alcohol because of the slight bitterness. However, the components have increased too strongly. The meat department was represented by a then famose duck breast in two thick slices and also here the skin with beautiful roast notes and a fine crispy. With the Salamander the kitchen can handle well. The intense poultry only slightly pink, not loved by everyone, but I really like it. The inserts and spinach fit well and again paraded in various preparations. All delicious, but no lasting memory. The curry sauce with beautiful cardamom note and not too sharp brought a beautiful exotic into play. The last regional hay cheese showed that mandarins can be less than just more than gel and fillets with fine sharpness. And on the other hand marinated fennel, as crême and only a few seeds. Both ingredients enchanted many exciting combinations. I had to be careful that the two cheese pieces did not disappear too quickly. Sometimes less unfortunately is also less! The bittrig spicy martini gave more interesting taste nuances, a very clever choice of the house. The last reading of the Rhône was okay. But if it's red and sweet, it's better to have a Californian zinfandel. The duck rooms sat down and filled me with four little things at night A marzipan with quince gel, a brownie with topping white chocolate, a cinnamon marshmallow and my favorite a whisky citrus gel. Conclusion: The young Fabian Denninger continues to try. Tastefully already in a very good way he is currently lost in too many toys. At greater concentration on the products there is still considerable potential here. Delicious feel-good kitchen was already there."
Nürnberg
