"It was once again a good opportunity to explore the landscape of the gastronomic peak in the Lübecker and Ostholsteiner area, which I naturally did not want to leave in any case. After a family trip to the famous Karl-May Festivals in Bad Segeberg, the evening should receive a culinary crown again. Our choice led us back to Timmendorfer Strand, located directly on the Lübeck bay, which I had already visited for the very positively surprising visit of the Balthazar in May this year. As recently reported, the Balthazar had to close his doors in the meantime, very to my regret. Luckily, with his Michelin award, it was not alone in this St(r)and place. Rather, it was more likely to be referred to as a delicate patch compared to the Orangerie restaurant, which also belongs to a hotel, the iconic high-rise of the Maritim Seehotel. No other restaurant in this area stands for high-quality gastronomic resistance, as this institution. This is due to the fact that the skill in the kitchen, as well as in the service and wine cellar, has been actively guided by two people for a quarter of a century, who may rightly call themselves the origins of their yard. On the one hand, this would be Lutz Niemann, who has been swinging the cooking spoon since 1984 with only a short interruption in this kitchen at the Lübeck bay. For more than a quarter of the century, he also managed to have the coveted Michelin star and also 17 points in the Gault-Millau throughout the orangery since 1994. Unchanged, its whole concentration still applies directly to the Baltic Sea, so that this work of life is still a term for people interested in gastronomy in particular. However, this level should also correspond to direct contact with the guest. Ralf Brönner has been making a major contribution to the restaurant's renown for 25 years with his leadership in the service sector and always keeps his loyalty. In addition to his role as chief maître, he also takes care of the more than 400 positions of the gourmet restaurant's wine cellar. Does such decades of constancy in the two important areas of gastronomy now mean a routine of making happiness immaculate by a lot of experience, or rather a less attractive dust layer on the long tradition? To experience this increased the tension and anticipation of this evening, especially in a direct comparison with the great experience in Balthazar, which now unfortunately has to remain unrepeatable in memory. Outside view. With regard to the ambience, it is certainly not surprising that in the orangery one meets neither a futuristic-topactual nor a casual-urban equipment. In the Maritim Seehotel -Hochhaus, the gastronomic suspension sign is located on the ground floor, not overlooking the sea, but still on the beautiful greening of the square in front of the back of the hotel. There is also a kind of veranda-winter garden, which allows guests to enjoy their meal with fresh sea air around the nose, but nevertheless in a weather-protected location. The entrance to the restaurant within the hotel. Inside view. One would have been almost disappointed if the interior of such a tradition restaurant of the upscale gastronomy would not come up with a lush chandelier. Of course, this expectation is already true when the spatiality is entered, in whose center an even light ensemble is immediately in the eye. Also at eye level, the illumination is designed with crowns -equipped lamps and mirrors on the walls enhance their effect. In combination with the consistently bright cream coloring of curtains and seat coverings, a brightening atmosphere results, in which the natural daylight does not come too short. The black ornament ornaments on the fabric covers and the also ornamented black carpet look as a colour contrast that gives the interior a sensation and elegance. Approximately 60 seats are granted to the interior where the tables with high-end partitions provide a very private atmosphere. White tablecloths are also not missing in this design. Separate floral decorations add small colour sticks to the interior. For special occasions, the restaurant also lists private dining rooms on its website. A pleasing testimony to the fact that one would like to open up newer concepts of the present in the truest sense of the word is the fact that a “glass” kitchen at the end of the guest room of such guests interested in the art of cooking, like me, gives the opportunity to look directly at the driving of the playful team around Lutz Niemann. This Saturday evening the restaurant was estimated at 80. This considerable number of guests took care of a 3-headed service Brigade, in which, of course, Ralf Brönner, already mentioned, as well as a young man and two young ladies were fully active. Mr. Brönner adapted himself to the classic ambience as a “Chef host” with just as classic suit, while the other service forces casually loosened the atmosphere in an ironed white shirt with a red service cure. We came in contact with all the hosts during the evening, while the main communication with the young service owner took place. He was characterized by skillful kindness. Unfortunately, however, unlike the first courses of the menu, he came to swimming in the selection of cheese and the presentation of the Petit Fours. Not only that he couldn't explain the cheeses to me, for example, at the end I had to get the plate placed on the adjacent table to the place with my choice, as he probably completely gasses it in his excitement. As with the Petit Fours, he frequently fell down the cutlery or the Petit Fours from their plates. Unfortunately, however, not inconsiderable maladministrations in view of the claim of the establishment, which cannot be turned under the carpet. The young ladies did their job at the table with routine and accuracy. Even Mr Brönner was not active in serving and advertising with us, but would like to wish, for example, before the main course extra good appetite and gave us water. The cheese and petit fauxpas also took a long break to the main course where we felt a little forgotten. Thus, the service performance has already been adapted to the noble, classic ambience in its way, but for these reasons it is unfortunately not possible to evaluate with the highest score. It should be stressed, however, that the mood below it was not excessive. But finally to the culinary part. A 6-course menu called Orangerie Menu for 139 € can be used on variants in 3 courses for 89 €; 4 gears for 106 € and 5 gears for 124 € are reduced. In addition, an a-la-carte offer is also offered, which is increasingly rare in gourmet restaurants nowadays. Their price ranges from appetizers and desserts to the 20s and 30s range and from the main courses in the 50s and 60s € range. The dishes offered were already reflected by the name and composition of the classic basis of the culinary arts lived here. Currently, for example, products such as seedlings, seed tongues or rehbock backs were in focus, with the highlighting of various sauces such as Sauce Mousseline and Brombeerjus marking the classic kitchen path. Classically with imaginative accents and imperfect and delicious: these two quotes from the restaurant website best combine their own claim to the cuisine offered. From this offer, I decided to get to the "Orangerie Menu" in 4-courses, while my accompaniment in 3 courses wanted to convince itself of the culinary credo of the Orangery cuisine. From the 6 courses you have complete freedom of combination. In the case of drinks, I personally left it as usual in the quiet water, which came from the brand Gerolsteiner Gourmet naturell and cost 8.5 € per 0.75 l bottle. My accompaniment also enjoyed rosé wine by Andreas Bender for 8.5 € the 0.2 l glass. As Apero, the culinary opening was a salmon tart with horseradish, apple slices and apple baiser Apero: salmon tart with horseradish, apple slices and apple baiser. The Tatar enjoyed the palate with a wonderful melt. Also the apple was beautifully present and added some crisp. Only the horseradish was not to feel and therefore lacked as a welcome counter pole, so that the appetizer overall seemed somewhat too sweet. Against acute hunger, a great bread arrangement could be countered below. Sauerteigbrot and linseed sack bread (above) with caramelised pumpkin seeds, olive oil, chickpea cream and Fleur de Sel (center), and nut butter (above). The sourdough bread was wonderful, even inward still steaming, warmed and delighted with a chess crust and loose-light crumb. A linseed sack bread was suitable as a crispy basis for consuming some of the further additions to this bread arrangement. These were, for example, a nut butter (below), which came easily like a foam and at the same time characteristically sweetish-aromatic. A chickpea cream (on the right) was also very loose and creamy and thus a slight hummus interpretation with acid employed. The olive oil was also of particularly impressive quality with great fruitiness. Caramelized pumpkin seeds (on the left) rounded off the arrangement as a beautiful sweet-salted snack as well as the obligatory Fleur de Sel (on the right directly under the bread). Another Amuse Gueule closed the tuning before the menu with a variation around the tuna. Amuse Gueule around the tuna. This consisted, on the one hand, of a tuna mosaic with nori algae. The raw tuna showed a really very good sushi quality and was characterized by its fleshy consistency and its beautiful fresh taste. The tuna with zucchini and Shisokresse-Sorbet, of course, was once again impressed with the tuna, this time slightly creamy, fresh quality. This melty texture added the very fine and very exactly cut zucchini discs with their bite a matching level of mouth feeling. The Shisokresse-Sorbet on it finally revived the turret, as it had been missing for me at the salmon apero with the horseradish, with a beautiful balance of sweetness and sharpness. A slice of red radish with it gave the amuse a small flashing kick that animated the taste buds. The gel cups, on the other hand, had no tasteful added value. After this appetizer, the menu started for me with the first appetizer dedicated to Périgord Gänseleber with Mirabelle, Apple and Almond. „Périgord Gänseleber mit Mirabelle, Apple und Mandel . In three variations, the advertised main actors were staged. The Gänseleber-Pastete in the Mandel-Mantel (below) enthralled me with craftsmanship and qualitatively perfect workout thanks to a stable consistency and yet wonderful melt, to which the almonds naturally gave a matching crispy component. A gooseberry cream with apple cores and forest beer-lee shell (left) convinced, as almost no other to expect, with loose creaminess. While the apple could hardly sound, the Waldbeer-Gelee took over this accompanying job perfectly, because acidity and sweetness were wonderfully suited to the heartyness of the liver. My, the still bulging, favorite was the caramelized gooseberry on apple-mirabellen-compot (above). Crispy roasted and with light pink, juicy core: Thus, the craftsmanship in the kitchen was again clearly demonstrated. In addition, as a warm component, it gave a great temperature change to the two other cold liver compositions. In terms of precision, the super-feinem Mirepoix from apple and Mirabelle made the pre-lived level clear. A nice sweet and sour game as a companion to the liver was added to this again pleasantly crisp variety. Other small elements on this versatile plate were a marzipan hammer and tupfer from Mandel-Marzipan-Creme, Mirabellen-Gelee and small Mirabellen sections. Both the marzipan hammer and cream hops of almond marzipan were much more aromatic than just sweet and therefore fit very well into the whole concept of the court. Especially the small Mirabelle cuts and velvets gave a further freshness with a once-pointed acid, which gave the herb liver a suitable counterweight and thus produced a round overall taste. A phenomenal start for me, which I truly want to call “good for eye-closing”. Brioche to Gänseleber-Gang. A part was of course not allowed to miss the toasted disc Brioche. In the second course, my accompaniment's 3-speed menu started, which now served us both lobsters and baked fördegarnel with pineapple Chutney and Bisque. Hummer and baked fördegarnel with pineapple Chutney and Bisque The triggered pieces of the tail and the scissors once again showed that there is a very good quality of the product, because fleshiness and juice were just as you wish from this sea dweller. The lobster was bathed in a crustnut bisque, which already in the pouring on the nose and, thankfully, remained in a saucer for pouring in the place. No drop should be left because their tasteful strength also convinced on each spoon. Fresh green asparagus added a vegetabile crispness and its characteristic taste. The fördegarnel, apparently baked in the pancoa shell, was of great size and, with its hearty crunch, provided a fun-making mix of lobster and bisque. A part was given a creamy lobster tartar on a pineapple cahutney, where the sophisticated acid of the pineapple added another combination level with the noble marine animal. For the main course, we both decided for the fish variant, which was next to a walk around salt meadow lamb. “Atlantik Steinbutt mit Pfifferlingen, Gartengurke, Dill und potato came to the table for us. Atlantik Steinbutt mit Pfifferlingen, Gartengurke, Dill und Potato . And here both of us once again expected perfected classical in pure form. The fillet from the stone butt was not only very juicy and can easily be divided into its lamellas, but also tastefully refined to the point by the frying process. Cams of a very fine, buty potato puree perfectly smashed the main actor, with the three-tone of pifferlings, punched cucumber slices and fresh dill also emerged clearly and in optimal balance. What should not be missing to complete such a classic fish course? Of course, a foamy beurre blanc, which was once again the mastered cookery and with salty-acidic balance had also succeeded optimally tastefully. Here we also enjoyed the saucers that remained in the place for the aftertaste, which could be completely empty by the service. Predessert around the raspberry. A raspberry sorbet throned on a raspberry butter cream in a quad of crisp, white chocolate. This sat on some raspberry gel and was doubled with champagne foam and a Baiser disc. Together with the raspberry pieces, this product was worked out with textures and temperatures again. The beautiful acidity was not neglected, altogether it was for my own palate but as a Predessert something too sweet. But again there was nothing to put out in taste and craftsmanship. For the conclusion of the menu, for me personally pleasing, one granted both a usual sweet but also a hearty possibility. As to be expected in view of the so often mentioned classical of the culinary philosophy of the house, the latter consisted of a raw milk cheese selection. Cheese selection. Blue cheese (below), goat cheese (left) and two cow's milk hard cheese (top, right) from the cheese selection. Due to the above mentioned service fauxpas, I can't say anything about the varieties I choose, because unfortunately the present service owner could not. Thanks to Mr. Brönner, it was at least possible to find out that these were from the well-known farm of Bakensholz, who already ran over the way in some restaurants. I then chose a blue cheese (below), as well as a slightly softer, tastefully clear variant (left). There were also two hard cheeses, one of which reminded of a dike cheese (above) and the other of a kind of parmesan (right). Even though I know nothing about the exact basis of the varieties, they were all of very good ripeness and aroma. Addons to the cheese: honey, fruit bread, pumpernickel, grapes, black walnuts, butter (from bottom to top), Also the classic accompaniment with pumpernickel, fruit bread, honey, butter, grapes and the black walnuts I particularly liked added to beautiful combinations with the cheese. My counterpart, of course, did not want to miss the satisfaction of her sweet tooth. Undoubtedly, she hoped to be able to enjoy the now served dessert called fines of shadow mortals and heart cherries with aromas of Balsamico. Fine of shades and heart cherries with aromas of Balsamico . As with Predessert, the cherry was also beautifully elaborated here in a variety of ways, whether it be as sorbet, baiser or the surprising “false” cherry from a kind of cherry cream in the jelly wall. In the central cherry mirror, which was in a beautiful caramel cream ring, the balsamico was also incorporated, which was also striking and remarkable for my accompaniment. So with her dessert, she was completely happy. Thanks to the final, small season of Petit Fours, I did not have to miss out on the last insulin shot, although it is also worth mentioning here that only one copy was served on the plate for both people, which is intended for demand. Petit Fours. After their own Gusto, however, each of us could choose something from the chocolate car for themselves. Chocolate selection. Without being able to explain the wide range in more detail, craftsmanship and taste were convincing and the dishes were perfectly closed for us. As usual, I would like to summarize the collected impressions of this Saturday evening menu in the Orangery. The lively classical of 28 years of star-supplemented gastronomy will be kept to the guest already when entering the guest room. This ambience was not dusty or old-fashioned, but presented itself very noble and cozy at the same time. An overwhelming severity of antique luxury was definitely not to be heard. As a result, the service team around Ralf Brönner acted in a way that was perfectly adapted to the attributes of this ambiance. As described, especially in comparison with other upscale restaurants that I have been able to visit so far, it is not possible to ignore the clear shortcomings in the knowledge of the offered cheese selection and the nap fauxpas that are probably resulting from excitement towards the end of the menu but in the final evaluation. Nevertheless, I would like to emphasise once again that the overall enjoyment that we took from this evening cannot be sustainably narrowed, but in conclusion it cannot remain unremarked. On the other hand, the team around Lutz Niemann managed to convince not only in the kitchen with the menu offered from the front to the back, but also to inspire. One thing for me was just as noticeable for all foods as pleasing. The aroma of the dishes was always based on the pure taste of its products. Spices never played a role here and were completely unnecessary, because from each component you have always brought out the best and much intensity. This clearly illustrates once again the experience in the kitchen, as well as the appreciation and mastery of craft perfection. A kitchen that has absolutely earned these hymns of praise for their lived art for me. Fortunately, at the end of our menu, I was able to give Mr. Niemann an interesting personal conversation during his visit to the table, confirming his focus on the own strength of the products and the related classical tastes. Nevertheless, he tries not to lose sight of the current course of time, even through an intensive exchange and collaboration of his young chefs, which he has succeeded very well for me. In a retrospective of the enjoyment granted this evening, a justification arises of the required price, which with a relaxed and pleasant evening enabled another great memory and experience in the gastronomic diary. This also did not destroy the mentioned smears at the service. Thus, in Timmendorfer Strand in the area of star gastronomy one can continue to experience a wonderful evening in the orangery even after the fall of the Balthazar, which is characterized by relaxed round-conciliation on rather classical culinary routes. I think that even the lower-rated service performance was not a chronic makel, but perhaps even more a daily fluctuation."
